Sunday 9 March 2014

The Search Story (Part I)

We started with our search for a new place to live in the moment we came to a conclusion that we need to do so. Though there was no pressing reason to move out, there was no point in delaying the process. Co-incidentally, Shashi had decided to visit us for a few hours. On learning our intention to re-locate, he suggested that we might consider Mysore. He knew of a group of people, who’d tried and given up on a community building effort and would like to sell land to people, who’d like to live by similar principles. There was no direct train to Mysore. So, we decided to get started and planned to begin our search at Palakkad and travel north to Mysore.
Option 1: Palakkad
On Dec 9, 2013, we reached Palakkad. Last time we visited the place few years back, it looked like a culturally rich, slow paced town with the useful urban amenities. This time, we started with a feeling that we should be lucky to find a decent option here. We lived with Rekha’s relatives, who were curiously watching our moves and were very kind to us. Nandan, based in Palakkad was introduced to my blog by another friend. He came forward to guide us through Palakkad. He spent good 2 days with us and our first interaction with him seemed like we’d been friends for years.
Palakkad, we realized, was too urbanized for our liking, far too hot even in the winter month and market prices of land were much higher than what we were ok with. A group of friends had purchased a 21 acre plot with the idea of ‘living in harmony with nature’, but could not work on it beyond 2 years for various reasons. They could have agreed to sell a small part of the land to us at a discount (to the market price). But after the Barkheda experience, we learnt that a discount is an illusion. In exchange for the discount, we’d have to probably live their idea of ‘in harmony with nature’.
Taking Nandan’s suggestion, we decided to explore Wayanad. It was supposed to be endowed with more fertile soil, better climate and lower prices.
Option 2 : Wayanad
We took a train to Calicut and then a bus to Mananthvady (in Wayanad district). During the drive itself, we were amazed at the level of ‘development’ in Kerala. There are no open areas in between towns here! Wayanad, which is supposed to be a hill station, is as commercially developed as a large town. Nandan had referred us to Roy in Wayanad. Roy was so helpful and courteous. He showed us around the place, we visited the land he’d purchased a year back and spent good time discussing a numerous issues of common interest. We could not bring ourselves to choose Wayanad as our place of stay given the level and the reach of commercialization; also the land prices high (though lower than Palakkad).
This visit closed Kerala as an option given the development in the state. But the visit was worth it because of new friends made in Nandan, Roy and a couple of more people of common interest.
Option 3 : Mysore
Wayanad to Mysore was a nice, brief bus journey through a forest. We reached there at about 8 in the evening. Mysore is a pleasant city as compared to others. There are areas, especially a little away from the hub, which are spaced out, where one can breathe. We were hosted by Guru and family, quite warmly, though they were less conversant in Hindi and English. The following day, we visited the land they’d (the group) purchased 17-18 years back and were now planning to sell.
We quite liked to land the moment we stepped on it. Along with Guru and his wife, Berty had also come with us. Berty had purchased 2 acres land from the group recently. Another 2 acres was purchased by a friend of his – Sanjeev. Both of them had plans of agro-forestry in the area.
We would have liked to discuss the details, but Guru did not seem inclined to reveal much about the plans of the group, the price, etc. He said that the group will have to take a decision together and he will let us know later. We’d liked the option. However, there were two distinct areas of concern. One was that the rainfall was a little less than what we’d have liked. Secondly, this was a failed community effort. Two couples had stayed on the land for 5 years before they’d decided to move elsewhere. 5 years is a long time! The relationship with at least one couple was quite strained and this was the couple, which was being blamed for the failed effort. This made us a little uncomfortable. But we felt that we should give ourselves the time to understand the dynamics better. After all, we didn’t have many options.
Since there was nothing conclusive being taken up, we decided to return from Mysore. But before we left, some friends of Guru showed tremendous interest in meeting us and showing us a farm, which they’d developed. This was a 4 acre farm, where they’d built two eco-houses, couple of tree houses, a nice and big farm of vegetables and fruits. Quite a beautiful place! We were amazed that 6 families could stick together for such a long time and develop something. The saddest part, however, was that not a single family was staying there. They were struggling to find a care taker for the farm. We felt, they might have tried to lure us to live there, but we were clear that we would not stay in a place, which we don’t own. Besides, water was a problem there. Bore wells in that area had also dried up.
On Dec 15, we left from Mysore to Mumbai. The kids had been waiting for us for 8 days.
Mumbai – the base by default
Back in Mumbai, we were still without any concrete option. We had planned to return to Barkheda on Dec 19, tickets were booked. We spent the three days with family. No call from Mysore during these days, which meant the option of Mysore was still not open.
We had not been positive about staying in my native place in Vidarbha. But with no option in hand, we felt it incorrect that we should reject this option without exploring it. Afterall, the place offered a sense of security. There might be a possibility of interference from relatives, but we felt quite adept at managing this risk. More importantly, Rekha was quite inclined that we should explore this option. So, on Dec 19, instead of returning to Barkheda, I booked a ticket for Amravati. I’d travel there, while Rekha and kids stayed in Mumbai.
Option 4: Vidarbha
The family of my father’s sister had been a farmer’s family for a few generations and owned land. I decided to begin my search from there. I spent two days with a cousin, with whom I hadn’t conversed for even 5 minutes in so many years. It felt nice. We saw the land options there.
I visited other places as well. I was visiting there after years. It was a multi-purpose visit. The land options I saw there were quite good, purely from the farming perspective. But the area is very fast developing. Land prices are shooting up, agricultural land is being converted to residential land at a brisk pace. Urbanisation was accepted as the undisputed route to progress.
The interactions there renewed my relationship with my own relatives – my individual relationship, without being the son of so and so. I spent close to a week there. The two options of land, which I had seen were not too great. Some relatives said that they will look out for options and get back. Market price of land was higher than what I’d have liked to and there weren’t any options to choose from.
On the whole I returned with mixed feelings. Not very excited, but open if something comes up.
Back in Mumbai
Nothing much to do, we found ourselves back in Mumbai. We didn’t like staying there much. Kids were watching TV for most part of the day, the schedule for the day had almost gone for a toss, eating habits disturbed and no one to meet up with. We wanted to go back to Barkheda, kids wanted to even more than us. But tickets were not available before Jan 9, 2014. Shashi, during his visit to Barkheda, had told us a little about Vinish, who stays in a village near Hubli and that we must meet him. We thought that instead of dragging along here, let us visit him…who knows what turn awaits us!
Hulekal (Hubli)
On Jan 1, we reached Hulekal, a village about 3 hours south of Hubli. Vinish and Karuna welcomed us very warmly and almost instantaneously, the families got along quite well. Their 4 yr old son was happy to play with Siddharth and Shreya. We stayed there for 2 days. They’ve rented a separate house to be able to host guests and friends, who visit them.
It was a nice, short and sweet visit. Vinish mentioned that they’ve been staying in Hulekal for 3 years and are now quite happy to stay there. They would also like to stay on land and are planning to begin the land search soon. Hulekal is a nice place. Sparcely populated, basic facilities available, it rains very heavily, dug wells are common and land should not be very expensive. Sirsi, a town 13 km away could provide us with the necessary occasional shopping.
Solapur & Pandharpur : Jan 4,5,6
Instead of taking a direct train from Hubli to Mumbai, we decided to break the journey at Solapur, my childhood town I hadn’t visited since 1994. It was a long overdue visit and the journey break made it possible for us to travel second class and save the cost and inconvenience of AC travel.
Barkheda
On Jan 10, we reached Barkheda as planned. Uncertain and confused about what to do next! This Barkheda visit was more for nostalgic value and also because we were longing to stay on our own. But within 2 days, we felt that it makes no sense base ourselves in Barkheda. We were not interested in exploring MP. South India seemed a better option. Travelling to and fro from Barkheda will be both very expensive and inconvenient. We could not do any farming given our uncertain stay.
Instead of making Mumbai our base, we thought it better to make Hulekal the base. There was a separate house to stay in temporarily, it would be closer to the places we’d like to explore and it will be possible for Rekha to stay with kids for a few days if I need to travel. Most importantly, we could get back to some disciplined lifestyle. We could also explore land options in and around Hulekal. We didn’t know how long this phase will last. We would also require our own household stuff to live separately, also the car. So, we packed enough household goods in the car, so that we can live comfortably for a few months and on Jan 13, began our 1300+ km long drive from Barkheda to Hulekal.
The long drive plan
I’d driven 750 km from Mumbai to Barkheda a year back, which was the longest stretch. This time it was much more. We started off after breakfast. The plan was to halt at Indore (200 km) on day 1, Nasik (600+) on day 2, Satara (950+) on day 3 and Hulekal (1300+) on day 4. We had relatives at all the locations. The halt would make it possible for us to catch up with them afresh.
Option 5 : Satara
The drive went as planned till the end of day 3. We reached Satara on the evening of Jan 15. I had it in mind that the area near Mahableshwar was quite nice and we should explore this area if possible. My cousin in Satara was in sync with this notion. He said that this part of the state was the best place for people like us. Climatically very pleasant, adequate rainfall, good soil, endowed with scenic beauty, not much urbanization and reasonable land prices. We decided to extend our stay there and check out options there.

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